Letter “P” :: Panettone or Pandoro?

In Italy, the Holidays Season brings – along with the huge amount of to-dos everybody knows – the Hamletic doubt: panettone or pandoro?

From icy Alto Adige to warm Sicily, the country splits into two parties: the Panettone supporters and the Pandoro fans.

The only thing twain agree-on is that both cakes are meant to be offered during Christmas time: “No other time is allowed”. Soon after January 6th they become outdated.

Everything else is open to an endless declination of variants.

History of Panettone

The name Panettone is the short for “Pan de Toni” (Toni’s bread). Toni was a scullion at Ludovico Maria Sforza’s palace, in Milan. Legend says that on Christmas night the Duke invited the most important patricians of the town. His cook had been given the task to create a new cake that was meant to leave his guests astonished. He actually made it, but forgot it in the oven and the cake got burnt. The humble scullion suggested to make another cake with the things they had available in the pantry.

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The cake was a success and when the Duke asked for the name, the cook simply said: “è il pan de Toni” (it’s Toni’s bread). So the legend goes!

Panettone, in its standard and traditional recipe, includes flour, eggs, raisins, candied zest and lemon peels.

About Pandoro

Pandoro – literally “golden bread” – is originally from Verona. It features an unmistakable 8-pointed-stars shape, while panettone has a round shape topped by a dome.

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It is simpler than panettone (no raisins, no candied fruits), just a generous dusting of powdered sugar (zucchero a velo) on top, just before serving.

Some say it is the new version of the XII century Verona cake “Nadalin”. Others say that the name refers to the habit of Venetian Republic well-off people of offering food covered with a golden foil, in order to show off wealth and power. A cake with a conic shape “Pan de oro” is said to be offered at rich merchants’ table. Though, these are just stories.

Actually Pandoro can boast a date of birth: October 14, 1884, when Domenico Melegatti, pastry chef in Verona, patented the first pandoro as we know it today.

This is what the tradition says. Today the manufacturers’ imagination have added so many variants that – sometimes – it is utterly impossible to recognize the original cake. Chocolate, egg cream, liquors, everything-you-can-think-of.

Every year there is a new fad: I remember with horror the 90’s fashion of stuffing  panettone with heavy and questionable liquor-scented creams or custards – OMG!

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Supporters of each cake are equally divided, each of them brings forth their reasons to catch new adepts to their cause.

Appetibilis suggestion is simple: try both of them (just a slice, they are calorie bombs) and have a glass of “bollicine” (sparkling wine) with them. It is mandatory… and let’s get the party started!

Wishing a Very Happy Appetibilis Holidays!

Interesting link: Classic Northern Italian Dishes

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